Taste of Iceland at Cuoco
Taste of Iceland is an annual tradition for me. But I never attended the tasting. This annual international chef collaboration isn’t cheap, and it always features lamb – how could an event celebrating Icelandic cuisine exclude lamb? – so I skipped the dinner in favor of the museum exhibits, concerts, laser shows, and literary events. Until last year. Last year I attended the press preview for the titular tasting event. I got to sample everything on the menu. I even tasted the meat. (Yes it was good.) This year I was lucky to be invited again. I was unlucky to be unwell on the day and missed it.
But unless you too are under the weather, it’s not too late for you to get a Taste of Iceland.
(sorry not sorry)
The Chefs
This year’s Taste features Icelandic chef Hákon Már Örvarsson from Essensia restaurant in Reykjavík collaborating with American chef Ron Anderson of Cuoco. Essensia is a stylish place in the recently redeveloped area near the harbor that I haven’t had a chance to try yet. The whole area was under construction last time I was there. Cuoco is a stylish Tom Douglas joint in the redeveloped North Lake Union area that I haven’t had a chance to try yet.
The Food
The dinner is a four-course prix fixe with cocktails. Cocktails cost extra, but what’s the point of going if you don’t try them?
- Arctic Char: Cold smoked and gently cooked filet of Icelandic Arctic Char. Topped with salsa verde, deep fried capers, small croutons and upland cress. Cream of fresh ricotta cheese.
- Salted Cod “Bacalao” and Langoustine: Icelandic salted cod, potato tortelli and sautéd Icelandic langoustines, purée of zucchini and basil, preserved lemon, lemongrass cream sauce, tomato concassé and fresh herbs
- Free Range Icelandic Lamb: Seared and slowly cooked filet of free range Icelandic lamb, glazed root vegetables, celeriac purée, rosemary and juniper berry infused lamb jus reduction, dust of dried wild Icelandic herbs and blueberries.
- Skyr of the Vikings: Delicate mousse of Icelandic Provisions Skyr Panna Cotta, strawberries, rhubarb and mint
I’m sure I would have loved the seafood. I mean, just read those descriptions! If I wasn’t opposed to lamb on moral grounds, I’m sure it would be delicious, too. It helps that Icelandic meat is not quite the industrial horror of U.S. meat production, and consequently is also less damaging to the environment. Still hard to get past the idea of eating little fuzzy baby lambs, though. And I love me some skyr. I’ve even tried to make it at home. I’m not sure I believe the Vikings ate it quite this way, but usually skyr desserts do a fine impression of cheesecake, and I’m very curious to try it as a fluffy mousse instead.
If any of y’all go, let me know what you think.
The Drinks
Not to sound like a lush, but the cocktails are kind of the main draw. I mean, there’s only so many ways to fix the iconic dishes of Iceland, but alcohol is an infinite palette.
Here’s what they’re offering this year.
- Not Quite Yoghurt? | $14
Brennivin, Icelandic Provisions Strawberry Lingonberry Skyr, milk, pomegranate, fresh lemon - Arctic Forest Fizz | $14
Reyka vodka, fresh lime, chervil, arctic thyme, reindeer moss shrub, bubbles - Jungle-Waterfowl | $15
Brennivin, pineapple, lemon, sea salt, dansk mjod mead, blueberry infused campari garnished with blueberries
- Black Gull | $15
Reyka Vodka, Brennivin, cucumbers, dill, pickle brine, squid ink, celery bitters, sugar, sea salt, lime garnished with cucumber and dill
The Details
WHERE: Cuoco at 310 Terry Ave. N.
WHEN: Oct. 11-14
COST: $80 (plus service charge and tax)
RESERVATIONS: online or call 206-971-0710
WHO:
Icelandic Chef Hákon Már Örvarsson
American Chef Ron Anderson
Icelandic Mixologist Teitur Ridderman Schiöth
Cuoco Mixologist & Assistant Manager Nikki Koth