Taste of Iceland has become an annual tradition for me, but until 2017, I never actually attended the tasting part. This annual international chef collaboration isn’t cheap, and it always features lamb – how could an event celebrating Iceland’s food cuisine exclude lamb? – so I skipped the dinner in favor of the museum exhibits, concerts, laser shows, and literary events. Last year I was invited to the press preview at Cuoco, but I was sick on the day and missed it. I blogged about what I missed last year, but this year I was got to experience the event in real life.
The Chefs
This year’s Taste features Icelandic chef Award-winning Icelandic Chef Georg Arnar Halldorsson from Restaurant Óx right on Laugavegur in downtown Reykjavik. Óx is as much an experience as a dinner. With only 11 seats at a table surrounding the chef, the meal is a ritualized three-hour omakase experience shared with a cohort. At ISK 32,500 per person, the closest I will ever get to an evening at Óx is this week’s Taste of Iceland event. (Even so, it’s worth checking out their website just for the Game-of-Thrones-opening-sequence-like landing page.)
For the second year in a row, the American collaborator is chef Ron Anderson of Cuoco is a Tom Douglas joint in the redeveloped North Lake Union area that I haven’t had a chance to try yet.
The Drinks
Icelandic bartender Tóta joined Cuoco’s mixologist Jonny Spielsinger to design a flight of custom cocktails featuring Reyka Vodka and Brennivín. They cost extra, but what’s the point of going if you don’t try them?
Tóta contributed two drinks that showcased two of Iceland’s most popular liquors. Vodka and Brennivín might bring shots to mind, but Tóta’s drinks highlighted the fact that they do, in fact, play well with others.
Odin
With its floral garnish and pink color, Odin looked like it would be a too-sweet drink. But it actually had a sharpness, like fresh lemonade, thanks to the sherry-casked Brennivín and crowberry-rhubarb puree.
Loki
In a nod to Marvel, Loki was a greenish drink that pretended to be something it’s not. With an elaborate garnish of cucumber and rosemary echoed in the drink flavors, this Reyka vodka cocktail could pass for a health drink. It was like and refreshing, with a gingery taste that just screamed ‘healthy summer beverage.’
Cuoco House mixologist Jonny Spielsinger didn’t name his drinks, but he went high concept with the Iceland/Seattle partnership.
Brennivín & Apple
Speilsinger mixed Icelandic alcohol with one of Washington’s top crops. Brennivín with Honeycrisp apple juice, in-house cinnamon agave syrup, and lemon and garnished with apple. The apple and cinnamon, as I expected, evoked apple cider. But I expected a sweet preschool drink and instead got Christmas. It was balanced and sweet but not too sweet. I liked it.
Reyka & Doug Fir
In this one, Icelandic vodka meets the most iconic species of Washington, but not one usually associated with food. Speilsinger took Doug fir tips and made his own syrup; mixed it with vodka, sage, and lime and rimmed the glass Icelandic volcanic salt. The result was like a margarita without the tequila. The smoky-flavored salt replaced the kick of a margarita’s stronger-tasting tequila, but threatened to overwhelm the herbal flavor of the Doug fir. I could have gotten very drunk experimenting with the exact right amount of salt per sip to perfectly balance the effects. As it was, I might have gone back (a couple times) for more. This was my favorite cocktail, I’m already wondering if I could make my own Doug fir infusion.
Too bad I forgot to get pictures.
The Food
As always, the dinner is a four-course prix fixe for $80.
First: Slow cooked Arctic char with Icelandic wasabi, green apple and nasturtium.
This might possibly be the best thing I have ever tasted.
This char was like the best sashimi, rich in flavor and buttery in texture – it would literally melt in your mouth. The Icelandic wasabi was mild with a hint of parsley flavor and lemony top note. Fancy little touches in the presentation not only added subtle flavor but helped elevate the experience beyond mere eating – the greens were cut into perfect little circles like the arctic habitat that spawned the fish. The flower petals were the same ones garnishing Tóta’s Odin cocktail.
I have always loved eating out, but lately, as my husband’s kitchen skills have improved, we’ve kind of given up on fancy restaurants. After all, prices just keep getting higher, but there is only so good that food can get, right? Most of the time, he can duplicate the food at home. But every now and then you eat something like this arctic char that makes you think, ‘yeah, it’s worth the hype.’ You can buy arctic char at Whole Foods, but it won’t taste like this at home.
I might have snuck back for a second plate.
Second: Fillets of cod with turnips, wild garlic, sunflower seeds and langoustine broth.
It’s unfair for anything to have to follow that char. But the Icelandic cod doesn’t have anything to be ashamed about. Its texture was much firmer and drier; more meaty than the ephemeral char. Capers made from wild garlic gave little pops of sweetness while sunflower seeds imparted a nuttiness. There was a thick creamy sauce and thinner, oily broth and their umami was a powerful counterpoint to the mild-flavored fish. The overall effect was rich and savory, almost like a return to earth after the spiritual char. (It only sounds hyperbolic if you haven’t tasted it.)
Main: Icelandic lamb eye of loin with summer squash, black garlic, grilled onions and sauce gastrique with dung smoked lamb fat.
It helps that Icelandic meat is not quite the industrial horror of U.S. meat production, and consequently is also less damaging to the environment. Still hard to get past the idea of eating little fuzzy baby lambs, though. Fortunately, this year I attended with a carnivorous companion who could spare me the moral quandary and share his tasting notes.
He said the lamb had perfect texture. The dish let the lambiness speak for itself, not hiding it’s natural gaminess under sauce. But the smoke-flavor was strong in the fatty bits and lingered in the aftertaste. The man standing next to us commented that lamb is his least-favorite meat, but that hew would happily eat this one.
Dessert: Icelandic Provisions skyr with beetroots, raspberries and rye bread.
Just as you can’t have an Icelandic menu without lamb, you can count on skyr for Icelandic dessert. Usually that means a skyr cheesecake, which I am totally in favor of. But for this meal, the skyr was made into ice cream. I can’t imagine why I’ve never seen that done before. Skyr is the perfect texture for ice cream – a little thicker than soft serve, but softer than hard ice cream. Instead of using sweet toppings to foil the slight yoghurty tang of the skyr, Georg kept things slightly on the savory side with twice-baked beets and tiny crumbs of rye bread that gave it the most satisfying crunch. The frozen raspberries kept it sweet enough to stay on the dessert side of the menu.
Georg was so quiet and self-effacing he seemed uncomfortable interrupting the conversation to announce each dish; Consul Hlynur had to call everyone to attention. Those in attendance listened politely as chef Georg introduced the first dish. After eating the char, they applauded each time he introduced a new one, with the applause growing louder each time. They may not have celebrity culture in Iceland, but those of us Cuoco last night knew Georg’s cooking was something to celebrate.
The Details
WHERE: Cuoco at 310 Terry Ave. N.
WHEN: Oct. 17-20
COST: $80 (plus service charge and tax)
RESERVATIONS: Reservations are strongly encouraged and can be made via www.cuoco-seattle.com, OpenTable or by calling the restaurant at 206.971.0710.
WHO:
Icelandic Chef Georg Arnar Halldorsson
American Chef Ron Anderson
Icelandic Mixologist Tóta
Cuoco Mixologist Jonny Spielsinger
Stay up-to-date on Taste of Iceland events happening in Seattle by following @IcelandNatural and using #TasteofIceland on Twitter and Instagram and ‘Liking’ Iceland Naturally on Facebook. Visit www.icelandnaturally.com to learn more about Taste of Iceland in Seattle.
