Tag Archive Qingdao

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Giant Crab

giant crab

When I was growing up, my family was really into sasquatch and ufos and ghosts. We dug anything that wasn’t supposed to exist. The tendency to prefer magical explanations over mundane ones is pretty universal. Even pragmatic people get into horror stories in October. This giant crab, preserved at an aquarium in Qingdao, China, is proof that nothing we can imagine is as terrifying as what nature offers us. We entertain ourselves with magical stories, all the while ignoring a real world greater than anything we could imagine.

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Cool Corner

Corner building in Qingdao

Phoenix, Arizona is all suburb and no city. Growing up there accustomed me to a certain architectural homogeneity. On my first trip to Europe, I took pictures of light switches and door handles, because I had never seen anything but the Home Depot standards. One of the things that drew me to Seattle was the existence of non-rectangular buildings. The way that people make use of odd-shaped, left-behind spaces still intrigues me.

This corner building in Qingdao tickles all of my anti-suburban fancies. A weird, triangular shape. A residence above a commercial venture (indicated by the painted pizza and neon signage mounted on the early 20th-century stone wall). And public art, this time in the form of a wintry clump of trees. Combined with the snowflakes in the window, the mural makes me wonder about the person who lives inside.

I took this picture in May. Is the resident someone who really loves winter? Do they save all their money to hit the lifts in winter? Or are they, like me? A serial obsessive who gets fired up about seasonal decorating, then gets distracted by something else and forgets to change the decorations? What obsession distracted them from their appreciation of bare branches and falling snow? Whatever the answer, the person who surrounds themselves with winter in an apartment above a pizza shop in a historical building must have an interesting story.

Suburban houses never inspire viewers to imagine the lives within. Or if they do, the imagined lives are painfully generic.

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Night Shopping Circus

I think the Atrium City shopping street in Qingdao is meant to be experienced at night. It seemed pretty dead when I visited in midday on a trip in 2015. But if the shopping left me underwhelmed, the fake night sky and sense of otherworldliness did impress. I hadn’t read the book The Night Circus yet, but looking back at the pictures, that’s what Atrium City’s night sky reminds me of today.

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Urban Skyline

cityscape

China has a well-earned reputation for ugly, industrial cities blanketed in choking smog. But that’s not the whole story. The haze you see here is only partly smog; most of it is mist above the ocean water, and that burns off by midmorning. Qingdao is a city of hills and trees. It has its ugly industrial suburbs and it’s sterile districts sprouting glass towers. But the old part of town is red roofs and green trees, with fresh air blown in off the sea.

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Qingdao’s Tsingtao

qingdao Brewery

The city of Qingdao is home to the only Chinese beer to achieve any popularity in the United States – Tsingtao. The beer is named for the city. In the U.S., even Chinese people often call the beer Sing Tao. But in its hometown, both are pronounced Ching Dao. The difference is a result of the  system used to convert Chinese words into Roman letters.

Wade-Giles vs. Pinyin

When the German-occupied city of Qingdao began to export its lager brewed from mountain spring water, the system in use was Wade-Giles. It was invented by a couple of Englishmen – scholars of Chinese, but not native speakers. So the beer was first romanized as Tsingtao and built up a respectable brand under that spelling. Then, in 1955, a former banker named Zhou Yougang was assigned to a Chinese government committee to improve the romanization of the Mandarin language. He developed the modern system of Hanyu pinyin that is still used today. Under that system, the city is spelled Qingdao.

Branding vs. Linguistics

Most people agree that the new system is a better and more uniform way to represent the pronunciation of Chinese language. But as with all change, it has created some confusion. The brewers decided that it was better for consumers to be confused about the origin of their beer than its quality. So they spared beer drinkers the stress of wondering whatever happened to Tsingtao and whether that new Qingdao beer is any good. It was probably the right choice.