Tag Archive Qingdao

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Bookish Mural

bookish mural in Qingdao

China is better known for sprawling developments of faceless apartment towers, and for good reason: there are miles of them in every city. But Qingdao also has some of the best street art of any city I’ve ever visited, possibly including Reykjavik, and many of the best murals are on apartment buildings.

Qingdao is in Shandong province, which the wonderful book Oracle Bones informs me is where the titular oracle bones were found. Those carved bones are the earliest evidence of writing in the world. Shandong province was also the birthplace of Confucius, whose writings are a pillar of Chinese scholarship. So it’s not surprising that even their street art has a literary bent.

{By the way, a recent Google “On this day” alert sent me down a rabbit hole of neglected photos from the 2015 homeland trip I took with my then 10-year-old daughter. You can expect to see pictures of China in this Sunday 1000 Words space for a long time to come.}

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The Gift of Lily

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURESWe were having fun acting like tourists in Qingdao, but I never forgot the real reason for our visit; even as we bought cheesy souvenirs and took bad selfies, there was tension in my gut. I knew I was going to fuck this up. Read More

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The Kindness of Strangers

Qingdao man takes a break from blowing bubbles with his son to teach us how to fly a kite.

A Qingdao man takes a break from blowing bubbles with his son to teach us how to fly a kite.

We were walking from the Tsingtao Brewery to Taidong Shopping Street. Beer Street fizzled out after the giant neon rainbow arch anchored by beer bottle sculptures on either side of the road, and there was still no sign of Taidong shopping street. We stopped two young women to ask for directions. I showed them the street name in characters on my phone and they conversed in Chinese, studiously examining my phone before typing into theirs.

A pair of young men approached and joined in. One spoke fairly good English, but his manner was as oily as his skin, and neither XX nor I felt inclined to trust him when he said, “I am going there, follow me.” Read More

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Qingdao Shopping: Atrium City and Taidong

The most impressive part of Atrium City is the entrance.

The entrance to Atrium City.

When you’re 10 years old, the most important part of traveling is buying souvenirs for your friends, so we spent our first afternoon in Qingdao shopping. I wasn’t quite ready for Chinese public transportation, so I played rich foreigner and asked the hotel to call a taxi to deliver us to Atrium City, an entire city block under cover of a fake night sky, populated with shops and restaurants whose facades replicated famous Qingdao landmarks. Ten yuan ($1.60) later, we left the cab and entered a magical grotto. I was as impressed as my 10-year-old by the soaring painted ceiling, fake trees and replica buddhas at the entrance. Read More

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A Day at the Beach

Despite total exhaustion after a 26-hour travel day, we woke early on our first full day in Qingdao. We were the first people in the hotel’s onsite Chinese restaurant for breakfast, where they hadn’t even put the sausages out yet. I am always delighted by the eclecticism of an Asian hotel breakfast buffet, and although I was sad the Castle Hotel’s lacked lychees, I made up for it with Chinese broccoli, hard boiled egg, dragonfruit, yogurt, and a churro. Plus about a gallon of delicious, German-style coffee. My daughter had corn on the cob, boiled prawns, three kinds of baozi, melon, toast, and apple juice.

Confident that eating again before dinnertime was purely optional, and knowing that jet lag makes you stupid, we had no fixed plans for the day. Read More