Tag Archive Norway travel

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My DIY Norway in a Nutshell Tour to Bergen – Part Two

Needless to say, I’m not going anywhere for spring break this year. But last year, my then-ten-year-old daughter and I went to Norway. A chunk of our trip was dedicated to the “Norway in a Nutshell” tour. Like the Golden Circle in Iceland, it’s a roughly defined loop in the southern part of the country with a few popular tourist attractions that have been built up into “you haven’t been there if you missed this” status. I wrote about the first part of this trip within a trip earlier. Now you can read the rest of the story.

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Destination Flåm Bakery

There is no shortage of awesome bakeries in Seattle. I have favorites scattered around town. “Well, since I’m in West Seattle, I have to stop at Bakery Nouveau.” Every time I stray north of Market I feel like hitting up Larsen’s. On the other hand, I never just happen to be in Black Diamond, but I love the Black Diamond Bakery. Some bakeries in remote places still thrive because people make excuses to drive out to them. These are the destination bakeries that you go out of your way to sample. I found one such bakery in Flåm.

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Ægir, The Brewery in Flåm

I expected the village of Flåm to be a pit stop on our DIY Norway in a Nutshell tour. Instead, it turned out to be a vacation highlight. It’s true that the appeal is purely one of atmosphere – there’s not much going on in Flåm, and almost nothing that would count as a tourist attraction per se. Unless you believe in the concept of the destination brewery. Which I do. And Flåm has a doozy of a destination brewery in Ægir.

Flåmsbrygga

There are literally only about a half dozen buildings in Flåm proper, and most of them belong to Flåmsbrygga, a hotel built right on the waterfront of the fjord, just steps from the ferry terminal. Although the building exteriors are designed to evoke the great halls of Vikings (or at least their churches), the kitsch stops at the door and the hotel rooms are modern and stylish, and not even that expensive by Norwegian standards. I was tempted to stay that but an extremely tight budget (and my daughter’s infatuation with bunk beds) landed us in a cabin at the campground instead. Which was fine, because we were very happy there, and we still got to eat dinner at the hotel.

Ægir Brewery

Among the cluster of Flåmsbrygga buildings is the brewery. Named Ægir after the Norse god famed for quality brewing, Ægir is one of Norway’s top craft breweries with an attached pub on the ground floor and a fancier restaurant upstairs. The décor is ski lodge meets stave church and I loved it. Although their award-winning beers are available in several Nordic countries, they do not export to the U.S., so my only chance of tasting them was at the source.

The Beer

They have a huge range of beers with some seasonal rotation. The day I went there, I got a tasting flight of five beers:

Bøyla Blonde; Rallar Amber; Siv Witbier; Ægir IPA; Natt Imperial Porter

They were all good – even the beers I wouldn’t normally drink, like the porter or the blonde, were tasty. They were also obviously part of a different brewing tradition than the brew culture I live in. All of the beers were more lightly carbonated and hopped than I’m used to. This made them feel thinner, but it also allowed for more subtlety and nuance than the beer I usually down.

Being from the PNW, I’m all about the IPA, and being more familiar with IPAs, that’s what I gave the most scrutiny. The Ægir IPA was different in the ways I’ve described, but still very recognizable as an IPA. Nearly everything I drink at home uses Amarillo and Cascade hops. This beer was hopped differently, and I was surprised how much it affected the overall character of the brew. I had to ask and discovered that there were some Citra hops, which I’m familiar with, but the primary hop was an Eastern European variety. (Unfortunately, I’ve lost my notes and don’t remember which one it was.) Anyway, it was a great reminder how easy it is to get stuck in a provincial rut, and how delightful to break out of it. I had forgotten it was possible to be surprised by the flavor of IPA.

I also picked up a can of the Upstate IPA for enjoying later back at the cabin. Cold and canned, this one was familiar in flavor, although still more lightly hopped than I’m used to. And that’s fine, because even though I love them, I recognize that PNW IPAs are, objectively speaking, too heavy on the hops. That means the Ægir IPAs were actually perfectly balanced.

The Food

Food trucks have overtaken the brewpub culture where I live, so it was a delight to sit down to a real gastropub dinner. At Ægir, they offer a seasonal Viking Plank, a five-course meal served with beer pairings. The dishes are modern gastro-pub fare, but made with local, historic ingredients that would (mostly) have been familiar to the Vikings who lived in this fjord a millennium ago. The best part of this modern sensibility is that there was a vegetarian version – hallelujah!

It’s probably not worthwhile to go into too much detail about the dishes, since they change regularly (and I can’t find my notes). But to give you an idea, there was salad, vegetables, an open-faced veggie burger, cheese, and a brownie. Like a lot of stylish food, the vegetables were in such large pieces they were hard to eat. The veggie patty didn’t hold up very well as a patty, but it was delicious, and a welcome change from the Gardenburger that is literally everywhere at home. Brownies with whipped cream and strawberry on top seem to be the molten chocolate cake of Norwegian restaurants, and I’m down for it. But I’m easy. The real test was my kid. Like Mikey, she hates everything. But she chowed down on her kids’ meal of meatballs and mashed potatoes.

Would I Go Back?

Okay, I don’t actually believe that any restaurant merits a special trip from the West Coast of the U.S. to Scandinavia. And unless Ægir himself brewed it, the same could be said for any beer. But if I happened to be in the neighborhood – say Bergen or Oslo, a mere 5-10 hours away, depending on traffic/train schedules – yeah, I’d make a side trip to have dinner in Flåm at the Ægir Brewery.

ByGD

The Viking Ship Museum in Oslo

On our second day in Oslo, we visited the Viking Ship Museum (Vikingskipshuset) on the Bygdøy peninsula. When we planned our Norway itinerary, my daughter and I both picked a couple of must-see items that we would accomplish no matter what. The Viking Ship Museum was my first pick. I’ve been to several exhibits of authentic Viking-age artifacts, but boats are (ironically) not so mobile. So the closest I’d gotten to a real Viking ship was the Gokstad reproduction at Viking World in Iceland. Íslendingur is awesome, but the Viking Ship Museum in Oslo displays the actual Gokstad ship.

Getting There

It’s worth just dedicating an entire day to museums on Bygdøy (or two, since most museums seem to only be open from 10-4 and you can’t fit them all in that window). Bygdøy is called an island, but it’s really a peninsula. You can just drive or take the bus to get there. But it’s more fun (and faster) to take the ferry from the downtown Oslo harbor.

We caught the second ferry of the day at City Hall Pier 3 (tickets were free with our Oslo Passes) and got off at the Dronningen stop. From there it was about a 10-minute walk to the museum through a quiet neighborhood of fancy houses.

Oseberg Ship

The Viking Ship Museum houses three authentic Viking ships that were used to bury their wealthy owners together with the grave goods contained in the ships. The Oseberg ship is the largest of the three and arguably the finest Viking Age find (a farmer dug into it in 1903). Built in Norway around 820 A.D., the clinker-built oak ship had room for 30 oarsmen and was richly ornamented.

Detail, Oseberg ship bow

The Oseberg ship probably sailed along the coast and up rivers in Southern Norway before being pulled ashore to bury two high-ranking women. One was in her fifties and the other was in her seventies. They were buried on a bed in the ship, along with the richest trove of Viking era grave goods ever found. Whoever they were, at least one of them was extremely important. The grave goods include a functional sled and a highly ornamented horse cart. The Oseberg ship is also notable for being the source of most of the textile remains from the Viking age.

Oseberg ship

Gokstad Ship

In 1879 two teenagers dug into “The King’s Mound” on their farm to see if there was really anything buried there. They discovered the grave of a Viking king (or an important chieftain, at least) who was buried around 900 A.D. The chieftain was not as wealthy as the Oseberg women, but his burial gifts were still extensive, including shields, small boats, and exotic animals. Compared to Oseberg, the ship is less extravagant in ornamentation, but bigger in size.

It was used for ocean voyages until the chieftain was killed in battle. (This is why they modeled Íslendingur after Gokstad instead of the more famous Oseberg.) Having walked around on its replica in Iceland made the relatively plain Gokstad ship more interesting. It was easier to imaging the ship fitted out with sails and shields, ready to cross the ocean and devastate monasteries.

Tune Ship

A farmer found the Tune ship in 1867. It was the first Viking ship to be excavated and is still one of the best-preserved Viking ships in the world. But compared to the other two it mostly serves to illustrate just how amazing the Oseberg and Gokstad ships really are. Not only is the ship itself less complete, but the grave was plundered and the remaining goods are not in great condition.

All This and More

Even though I’ve already seen a lot of Viking artifacts, the items at the Viking Ship Museum are quite unusual. There wasn’t a lot of overlap with other exhibits, so I still felt like I learned a lot – for example, I always wondered what Viking shoes looked like, and now I know. There were several documentaries on loop in the museum, including one about textiles, which was all new information for me.

A normal person with only a passing interest in the Viking age would probably be satisfied with half an hour in the museum. But I had to read every single plaque and watch every film in its entirety. We spent well over two hours there, not counting the gift ship, where many items were purchased. I have no regrets.

A Penny Saved

We visited the museum using our Oslo Passes, which more than paid for themselves on our museum-focused itinerary. But if you’re only going to visit a couple of museums, your ticket from the Viking Ship Museum grants free entry to the Historical Museum, Norway’s largest collection of historical artifacts, including Viking treasures, Egyptian mummies and a multitude of ethnographic exhibitions, within 48 hours.

ByGD

Baroque Movement at the Oslo Opera House


Like a smaller version of the Sydney Opera House, the building housing the Norwegian National Opera and Ballet is a tourist attraction in itself. The dramatically sloped roof is publicly accessible and serves as a popular spot for Instagram photos. I never got around to taking selfies on the roof, though. Because the best way to enjoy an opera house is to see a performance. So on my first night in Oslo, I went to see Baroque Movement at the ballet.

A Busy Calendar

They offer tours the opera house every day, but there are performances taking place inside it almost as often. When I first checked the calendar, there were two performances in the Oslo Opera House during the three nights we were going to be in town. There was a ballet on our first night, and the opera Der Rosenkavalier on the last night. Dance is a universal language, while a 3-hour German opera with Norwegian subtitles (although an intriguing prospect for me) seemed like a big ask for my 10-year-old.

“Resonance” Joerg Wiesner image c/o Norwegian National Ballet

Tickets can be surprisingly affordable. About a month before we left, there were tickets as cheap as $12 for the ballet. When I looked closer to the performance date, those seats were gone and the cost was closer to $50 – so plan ahead if you want to go.

Baroque Movement

The ballet we saw was a mixed rep program called Barokk Bevegelse (Baroque Movement in English). It was a somewhat ironic name, since the ballet was very contemporary – only the music was baroque, and even that was … modified. The person sitting next to me explained that Baroque Movement was part of a three-event series partnering a group called Barokksolistene with the National Ballet to focus on baroque music and I should really check out Alehouse Sessions.


Barokksolistene

Barokksolistene translates to “Baroque Soloists.” With the tagline, “It’s just really old pop music,” their focus is making music that people think of as stuffy and academic accessible and engaging to regular folks. If I could only catch one show in Norway, could there have been a better performance for me to see?

Violinist Bjarte Eike performs in the lobby of the Oslo Opera House.

Immersive ballet

Celebrity violinist Bjarte Eiki and the other musicians, together with “barokkbarn” (children in Baroque costumes) met the audience in the lobby and played us into the theater like pied pipers.

Barokkbarn prepared to lead the audience to their seats.

Since the music began in the lobby, there was no “moment” when the performance started. Musicians wandered the auditorium as people took their seats, gathered casually in front of the stage, and took their places. Slowly, the floor they stood on sank, and the orchestra disappeared from view, settling in the pit. But they didn’t stay there. Born showman Eike often appeared on stage throughout the performance, even changing clothes to match the dancers.  

I’m not going to describe the building or the auditorium in detail – there is plenty of information about the architecture elsewhere online. But I will say that it is beautiful. And it is a fraction the size of McCaw Hall, so even without the blurring of the fourth wall, performances in that space would feel intimate.

Resonance

The first piece was a world premiere by American choreographer Garret Smith called “Resonance.” The music comprised a collection of Baroque’s most frenetic composers.

“Resonance” Joerg Wiesner image c/o Norwegian National Ballet

Movement-wise, this dance was the most Contemporary Eric of the four, but the mood was humorous and irreverent. The costumes evoked the Baroque period filtered through a lens of Prince. It was the perfect start to the program, clearly setting the tone – this evening of Baroque music was going to be anything but stuffy. The dancers used violins as props (kind of stressing me out; I was like “be careful!” every time the violins showed up) reminding us that the violinist was the Baroque era’s lead guitar rock star.  

Bout of the Imperfect Pearl

Another new work, this one by Melissa Hough. Her name seemed familiar, but I don’t think I’ve seen her work before. She is an American trained in the Russian ballet tradition who dances with the company in Oslo.

“Bout of the Imperfect Pearl” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

There was a very feminist feeling to this piece. The lead was dressing and undressed while everyone else danced in nude bodysuits. It wasn’t quite a narrative, but it felt like commentary. The dance was very prop heavy, with the various articles of clothing that imprison the lead also informing a lot of the movement.

“Bout of the Imperfect Pearl” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

The music involved modified Vivaldi and a countertenor, whose effect I liked better than the first time I heard a counter tenor. The slower pace of the music and jet lag conspired against me during this beautiful piece, but the ominous, moody vibe woke my baby goth right up.

“Bout of the Imperfect Pearl” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

How did I get where…

Cina Espejord is another Oslo-based dancer. His world premiere “How did I get where…” was all about group dynamic. Especially with the water noises added to Bach’s music, their interactions reminded me of water molecules. Everyone was dressed in khakis and dingy tees, even Eike, who joined the dancers on stage.

“How did I get where” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

A projection of an old family photo implied that the relationships were more human than chemical, though. That photo appeared so gradually I almost didn’t notice it, then members in the photo start to disappear from it until only the child is left, finally whole thing is gone.

“How did I get where” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

A long middle passage with slowly plucked strings went on too long, but that super-connected style of dance where relationships and placement of dancers trumps specific movements is one of my favorite things to watch in dance.

Vespertine

The program ran a spectrum from most contemporary to most balletic (I thought you always put the toe shoes first?) ending with Vespertine.

“Vespertine” photo by Joerg Wiesner c/o Norwegian National Ballet

Liam Scarlett’s “Vespertine” was created for the Norwegian National Ballet in 2013. Scarlett was inspired by the music of Arcangelo Corelli to create an abstract, sensual work against a backdrop of hanging chandeliers.

“Vespertine” photo by Joerg Wiesner c/o Norwegian National Ballet

To me, it was the most beautiful of the four pieces. It was also the one that looked most familiar stylistically (coincidence? or unexamined bias?). Either way, it was exquisite.

Compare and Contrast

The best thing about seeing art away from home is finding out what you’re missing. How do they do things differently here? What’s universal? Compared to my home company, Pacific Northwest Ballet, the Norwegian National Ballet chose dances with different tropes. There was less shoulder-rolling and head-grabbing, more props. They told more of the story with costuming, from fussing with their clothes as part of the choreography to actually wearing props.

“Vespertine” photo by Joerg Wiesner c/o Norwegian National Ballet

The NNB dancers seemed to spend more time in the contemporary space than the PNB dancers do. It might have just been the particular program, but on that night, the dancers had the looser physicality of contemporary dancers instead of the tense verticality and sharpness that PNB dancers maintain even in less balletic pieces. There was more natural movement (no jazz hands ballet running here) but very little pointe work. In fact, toe shoes only appeared in “Vespertine,” and even then going on pointe was for pivots, not a place to hang out.

For all that PNB is improving its body diversity, the variety of body types was a pronounced contrast here, and the casting is unexpected for an eye accustomed to the Balanchine tradition. The waifish dancer took the lead in the more modern “Pearl” while a more solidly built dancer spent the most time on pointe.

Conclusion

Even though I love attending the ballet at home, I have rarely attended arts performances of any kind when traveling. I never pack nice clothes, and my plans are usually flexible enough to be uncertain of actually being in a certain town on a certain day. But getting to see the ballet in Oslo was one of the highlights of my trip to Norway. And actually enjoying art in a theater is much better than just taking pictures of the theater for Instagram. In the future, I might start building my travel plans around the local ballet calendar.

“How did I get where” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

Program Details

Choreography

Liam Scarlett, Cina Espejord, Melissa Hough, Garret Smith

Music

Bjarte Eike, Jon Balke, John Dowland, Arcangelo Corelli, Francesco Geminiani, Johann Sebastian Bach, Antonio Vivaldi…

Sound design

Jon Balke

Lighting design Vespertine

Michael Hulls

Lighting Design Espejord, Hough, Smith

Paul Vidar Sævarang

Costume design Vespertine

Liam Scarlett

Costume design Espejord

Sunniva Østerbø

Costume design Hough

Xavier Ronze

Costume design Smith

Monica Guerra

Music director

Bjarte Eike

Artists

The Norwegian National Ballet, Barokksolistene

{I attended Baroque Movement courtesy of the Norwegian National Ballet.}