ByGD
May Wind 五月的风 is located in May Fourth Square on the waterfront in Qingdao. The park and its sculpture are dedicated to the The May 4th Movement which protested the Treaty of Versailles’ transferring the German concessions in Shandong (including Qingdao) to Japan rather than returning sovereign authority to China.
This sculpture is a rare Chinese celebration of freedom. But the kites flying above it represent freedom everywhere.
ByGD
Memory is a funny thing. A few years ago I read a book in which one character famously never danced.
Everyone in the book agreed that person was just not a dancer. But then one day, flipping through an old photo album, there was a picture of him on the dance floor.
I thought the memory of the day my daughter learned to fly a kite in China was complete and clear. It was such a special event I was sure every detail would stick in my memory forever. I don’t remember flying a kite myself in China, but here is evidence that it happened.
ByGD
Super cheap package tours to China are awesome. I’m an expert at making cheap travel plans. But I’ve taken a package trip to China because even I couldn’t plan an equivalent trip for less. But the downside to those package deals (and most package tours) is that they don’t allow for individual contact.
When I was on my package tour of China, we were beset by hawkers every time we got off the bus. But I never had an actual conversation with a Chinese person who wasn’t paid to be nice to me or trying to sell something. Once, at the zoo in Beijing, a pair of college students approached me wanting to practice their English. Before we had finished with pleasantries, the tour guide rushed over and shooed them away.
In contrast, solo travel can be hard. In China, it’s guaranteed to be. But the upside is the connections with regular people, which do more to demolish preconceptions and stereotypes than anything else that could happen. When I traveled with my daughter in China, we met dozens of people. We chatted with college students about marine biology; explained international adoption to old ladies with the help of a cell phone translation app.
And we got lots of neighborly help from strangers. When we got lost and couldn’t understand the directions in Chinese, people gave us a ride where we were going. The concierge at our hotel volunteered to accompany us for an orphanage visit on her day off.
On the day pictured here, we visited the May 4 Square, a public space honoring protesters who fought for Chinese freedom from foreign occupation, now a popular place for couples and families to spend their free time.
We bought a kite, then struggled to put it together. This man, who was at the park flying kites with his young son, noticed our struggle. He came over and fixed our kite, then showed us how to fly it. We didn’t try to talk much or struggle with translation apps. We just hung out, flying kites, cheering on our kids. That dad kept an eye on us as well as his own kid. He helped us straighten out the string when the kite fell or tangled with someone else’s. Thanks to him, we spent a relaxing afternoon the way the locals do. That day we were part of the community, just another family among many enjoying the waterfront on a day off.
Package tours can be a good deal. But the neighborly kindness of strangers far from home is priceless in so many ways.
ByGD
This Kentucky Fried Chicken is one of the few American stores I saw the entire time I was in China. Its prime corner location in a grand-looking building overlooks the May 4th Square right on the water in Qingdao’s prosperous commercial district.
The May 4th Movement (五四运动, wǔsì yùndòng) was sparked by the Treaty of Versailles which transferred German concessions in Shandong (the area where I stayed) to Japan rather than returning sovereign authority to China. Mass student demonstrations on May 4th, 1919 kept China from signing the treaty. The May Fourth Movement supporting Chinese sovereignty is an early successful example of direct democracy in China.
So does that make the appearance of American chain restaurant in the May 4th Square poetic or ironic?