Category Archive China

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I Fly a Kite

Memory is a funny thing. A few years ago I read a book in which one character famously never danced.

Everyone in the book agreed that person was just not a dancer. But then one day, flipping through an old photo album, there was a picture of him on the dance floor.

I thought the memory of the day my daughter learned to fly a kite in China was complete and clear. It was such a special event I was sure every detail would stick in my memory forever. I don’t remember flying a kite myself in China, but here is evidence that it happened.

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Kindness of Strangers

Super cheap package tours to China are awesome. I’m an expert at making cheap travel plans. But I’ve taken a package trip to China because even I couldn’t plan an equivalent trip for less. But the downside to those package deals (and most package tours) is that they don’t allow for individual contact.

When I was on my package tour of China, we were beset by hawkers every time we got off the bus. But I never had an actual conversation with a Chinese person who wasn’t paid to be nice to me or trying to sell something. Once, at the zoo in Beijing, a pair of college students approached me wanting to practice their English. Before we had finished with pleasantries, the tour guide rushed over and shooed them away.

Talking to Strangers

In contrast, solo travel can be hard. In China, it’s guaranteed to be. But the upside is the connections with regular people, which do more to demolish preconceptions and stereotypes than anything else that could happen. When I traveled with my daughter in China, we met dozens of people. We chatted with college students about marine biology; explained international adoption to old ladies with the help of a cell phone translation app.

Help When You Least Expect It

And we got lots of neighborly help from strangers. When we got lost and couldn’t understand the directions in Chinese, people gave us a ride where we were going. The concierge at our hotel volunteered to accompany us for an orphanage visit on her day off.

On the day pictured here, we visited the May 4 Square, a public space honoring protesters who fought for Chinese freedom from foreign occupation, now a popular place for couples and families to spend their free time.

Flying a Kite

We bought a kite, then struggled to put it together. This man, who was at the park flying kites with his young son, noticed our struggle. He came over and fixed our kite, then showed us how to fly it. We didn’t try to talk much or struggle with translation apps. We just hung out, flying kites, cheering on our kids. That dad kept an eye on us as well as his own kid. He helped us straighten out the string when the kite fell or tangled with someone else’s. Thanks to him, we spent a relaxing afternoon the way the locals do. That day we were part of the community, just another family among many enjoying the waterfront on a day off.

Package tours can be a good deal. But the neighborly kindness of strangers far from home is priceless in so many ways.

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Waterfront Property

I don’t know what this building across the street from the beach in Qingdao is. Is it a fancy hotel? A fancy mall? A fancy government building? We were too sweaty and dirty from playing at the beach to check it out up close. But in my imagination, it’s the private villa of a Bond villain who spends his days scheming to turn the city’s best public beach into a private one.

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Future Site of Qingdao Metro

When my daughter and I were in Qingdao a few years ago, we saw these fences covered with Metro signs everywhere. The advantage of central planning is that you can build a whole system at once. While cities in the U.S. have to plan and budget public transit one rail line and painful public process at a time, Qingdao was building an entire citywide metro system at once. It was scheduled to open later in the year that we were there, and I would love to go back and see what a difference it makes. Qingdao really needed a subway system. The city sprawls over hills and around waterfronts. Subways are simpler than buses and taxi drivers in Qingdao are brats. It must be so easy to get around Qingdao now.

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Multi-Use Public Space

Here in America, we have a hard time with sharing, even in public spaces. Americans have an idea of parks as passive recreation spaces, and beaches for swimming, and so on. We get mad when cyclists ride the trails we’re hiking, when people set up a sports game on the grass where we wanted to lie and read a book. We pass laws against bringing the family dog to a ball field or playground.

The Chinese have no such qualms. I guess that crowded conditions breed a certain flexibility. This man was fishing at Qingdao’s most popular beach, surrounded by swimmers and speedboats and kite-surfers and I was the only person who batted an eye.