Category Archive China

ByGD

Princess Jellyfish Palace

jellyfish aquarium

One of my family’s favorite manga/anime properties is Princess Jellyfish by
Akiko Higashimura. It’s about a girl who, instead of growing up to be a princess as she had hoped, grew up to be a jellyfish otaku. When she meets a real life princess, they turn out to be a beautiful cross-dressing boy. The two of them pair up to design jellyfish-inspired dresses to help nerdy girls feel like princesses. I love this story.

Before I read it, I did not know that in Asia jellyfish otaku are no more strange than model train collectors or any other nerd-level hobbyist. But I wasn’t surprised by the discovery, thanks to the Fantacy (sic) Palace of Jellyfish.

Qingdao Underwater World is the oldest public aquarium in China. It’s scattered across several themed buildings near the Number 1 Bathing Beach. It doesn’t make a great first impression, since the specimen hall is the first building you pass through. It’s a seriously old school collection of dead animals. In some places the aquarium goes a bit too far in the other direction, with mermaid shows and dancing sharks.

But parts of the aquarium are high quality educational collections. A moving sidewalk carries you underneath a giant tank in a subway-sized tunnel. And there is an entire building dedicated to jellyfish. Jellyfish are amazing, and hard to keep in an aquarium. The variety of forms and colors on display in that jellyfish aquarium far exceeded anything I could have imagined. It was a small building with limited information in English, but it was enough to inspire the kind of awe in the natural world that internet-connected folk with passports rarely get to feel these days.

ByGD

Finally Home

I love street art wherever I find it. Qingdao had lots of it. This painting was actually on the grounds of our hotel, The Castle, as you can see from the bus stop painted into the picture. The sort of European-looking girl has a bunch of suitcases. The painted title is “Finally Home.”

It’s a little weird for a hotel to have a home-themed artwork in its gardens, even though the “home away from home” thing is pretty overdone. But after a nearly 24-hour travel day getting from Seattle to Qingdao, we certainly felt like we had finally reached home when we opened the door to our room somewhere around midnight local time. And while we were in Qingdao, we certainly were comfortable in our home base.

I know it’s just advertising. But the almost Ghibli-like naivety of this picture does capture how I feel about the Castle. Only some of us have lived there, but for my family, Qingdao is our home in China. And the Castle is our home in Qingdao.

Today I am leaving for a similar trip with my younger daughter. I hope we find ourselves as cozy and welcome somewhere in Norway when we finally reach our beds tomorrow tonight.

ByGD

A Room With A View

When I went to China with my daughter, I researched everything to the last detail. I found the Castle Boutique Hotel, which doesn’t have its own English-language web site, on review sites like TripAdvisor and Agoda. It was one of the hotels that I could book with points from my travel rewards card, so we could stay there for the full 10 days paying for only 2 of them outright.

The hotel is located on the grounds of the old governor’s mansion in the German Concession neighborhood, surrounded by lovely, quiet gardens. All of the reviews were adamant that you should insist on a room in the front overlooking the gardens.

I don’t remember now if I tried to do so or not, but we ended up in a room at the back, overlooking the neighbors’ back yards. I’m so glad we did. It offered us an oddly intimate view of everyday life in a country where it can be very difficult for tourists to meet locals.

Every morning we woke up and peered out our window overlooking the routines of the family next door. An older couple watched their granddaughter during the day. The grandmother hung laundry and the grandfather gardened while the little girl rode her tricycle around the yard.

I felt like a voyeur who had been caught when one day they noticed us watching them from above. But they were good-natured about it and waved hello. After that, every morning we woke up and peered out our window overlooking the family next door and waved good morning.

ByGD

Home Brew

China is hardly a hotbed of craft brewing. Tsingtao is possibly its only famous brand. Named for Qingdao, the German-influenced city where it is brewed (the difference in spelling is a result of changing pinyin systems in the 20th century) Tsingtao is a nice pilsner of the type favored in Asian countries.

When you visit the city of Qingdao and order a beer, it’s a given that you will be given a Tsingtao. The question they ask you is “Do you want the local one or the kind we export?”

“What’s the difference?”

“The local one is 5 yuan extra.”

“I’ll take the local.”

Maybe it’s just my imagination, but I think the home-style brew tasted a little fresher.

ByGD

EuroChina

Euro-style street in Qingdao

Okay, last one I promise. At least for a little while. But even knowing the colonial oppression that created it, I just love the cozy combination of Chinese and German aesthetics in Qingdao’s old town.