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The International Children’s Museum in Oslo

If I was traveling with anyone else, I probably would not have gone there. But since my companion was a 10-year-old who asked for “chances to make art” for her special trip to Norway, the International Children’s Art Museum (Det Internasjonale Barnekunstmuseet) in Oslo was the first stop on our itinerary. I’m not going to lie. I didn’t expect much. People always underestimate kids.

The International Children’s Art Museum

Nearly every city has a children’s museum these days, and sometimes art museums have sections or special exhibits for children. But as far as I know, the International Children’s Art Museum in Oslo is the only art museum in the world dedicated entirely to children. Even if it is not, this museum is still unique because it’s not just showing art to children, it’s showing art by children.

Established in 1986 by film director Rafael Goldin and his wife, Dr. Alla Goldin, the museum (colloquially known as Barnekunst) collects, preserves, and displays art by children. They have a massive collection of art from over 180 countries. Only a small fraction of it is on display at any given time in the museum, a large converted house in a quiet suburban neighborhood of Oslo that houses the embassies of many small nations.

The Museum Experience

Nearly every inch of the big, old house is covered in art. Some of it is original works on small, framed pieces of paper. Some of the pieces have been blown up and printed on giant posters for better viewing. One small room houses sculptures while other rooms are dedicated to rotating themed exhibitions and displays from the permanent collection. The top floor straddles the line between wonderland and creepy, with red walls and a huge collection of dolls from around the world. The basement houses a gift shop and work room where children can create their own art and participate in regularly held weekend workshops.

Barnekunst was our first stop in Oslo after picking up our Bergen Cards at the tourist information center. We arrived in the late morning of an April Tuesday, just as some others were leaving. Aside from the woman working the front desk, they were the only other people we saw during our visit. You could easily view the entire museum in half an hour, but to really take it all in, you have move slowly. We ended up staying nearly three hours.

We left our shoes in the cubbies by the door and explored the museum in our socks. The friendly staff person at the front desk gave us a worksheet with a scavenger hunt of images from the museum – if you found them all, you could get a prize. Starting from the basement, we worked our way slowly through rooms, ending in the uncanny doll room. Along the way, we found a few of the scavenger hunt items and marveled in awe at the skill of some young artists.

Then we worked our bay back down, looking more closely for the ones we missed. Several of the images on the worksheet were close-up details of larger works and gave us a real challenge. We had to get hints from the lady at the desk to find the last two.

Inspired, my daughter spent nearly an hour at the end of our visit drawing a picture in the work room. She drew a portrait of a gender-fluid child. Since I hadn’t noticed gender as a theme in the museum, I asked her what inspired the choice. She said she couldn’t decide whether to draw a girl or a boy, then realized it didn’t have to be one or the other. Again, I was reminded that youth is not the same as ignorance.

The Art

On our first pass through the museum, we were mostly struck by the talented kids. We marveled at the technical skill and maturity of some of the drawings relative to the age of the artist. My daughter’s ego took a few hits as she repeatedly commented, “That person is my age,” or “That was done by someone younger than me.”

Ten year old examining art at the International Children's Art Museum

But as we went back through more slowly, I began to pay more attention to the way the work was grouped. Not all of it was technically superior. Some 13-year-olds’ pictures looked like first grade scribbles, and after a while, you even began to see that overall, a certain level of skill and detail generally matched up with age.

But you also began to notice the way geography tended to influence style. Children from South Asia and Africa tended to use brighter colors, art in a cartoon style was more likely to be from East Asia. Regardless of technique or style, the pictures often revealed the inner workings of the artist’s mind. Whether it was a stick figure that somehow captured the anguish of getting lost or an impressionistic painting of a father’s yelling face, these images had just as much emotional weight as the work hanging in other museums.

The Impact

Sometimes the choice of subject matter revealed that childhood is not the uniformly naïve and unburdened experience adults like to imagine. Among the robots and superheroes and spaceships were also pictures of farm work, hunting for food or hauling water, and anxiety for the future. Individual works were sometimes very compelling, and sometimes Regardless of whether an individual works was compelling of itself or became so through the careful curation and context of museum display, the end result was as effective as any exhibition of professional works. Perhaps it was even more so for being so unexpected.

When we were done, my daughter got to pick a prize. She chose a postcard of one of the paintings that I had liked. It sits on my desk now as a reminder that anyone can make good art.

Solene i hendene by Lyudmilla Barzion (15)
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Music I Liked – Pickathon 2019 Lineup

When the 2019 Pickathon lineup came out, there were a couple artists I was excited about, and a whole lot more I’d never heard of. More research was needed and here are the preliminary results. I haven’t worked through the whole line-up yet, but I’ve already got too many interesting bands to fit in one post.

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Cute Apartment

murals on Chinese apartment

I love the street art I find wherever I travel in the world. But these Qingdao apartment buildings completely covered in cute artwork are some of my favorites. Partly it’s because they’re so cute, and it’s fun to imagine coming home to such cheery pictures every day. But these Qingdao apartments are also such a contrast with the housing developments of identical faceless high rise apartment towers that stretch for literally miles on the outskirts of Chinese cities.

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Baroque Movement at the Oslo Opera House


Like a smaller version of the Sydney Opera House, the building housing the Norwegian National Opera and Ballet is a tourist attraction in itself. The dramatically sloped roof is publicly accessible and serves as a popular spot for Instagram photos. I never got around to taking selfies on the roof, though. Because the best way to enjoy an opera house is to see a performance. So on my first night in Oslo, I went to see Baroque Movement at the ballet.

A Busy Calendar

They offer tours the opera house every day, but there are performances taking place inside it almost as often. When I first checked the calendar, there were two performances in the Oslo Opera House during the three nights we were going to be in town. There was a ballet on our first night, and the opera Der Rosenkavalier on the last night. Dance is a universal language, while a 3-hour German opera with Norwegian subtitles (although an intriguing prospect for me) seemed like a big ask for my 10-year-old.

“Resonance” Joerg Wiesner image c/o Norwegian National Ballet

Tickets can be surprisingly affordable. About a month before we left, there were tickets as cheap as $12 for the ballet. When I looked closer to the performance date, those seats were gone and the cost was closer to $50 – so plan ahead if you want to go.

Baroque Movement

The ballet we saw was a mixed rep program called Barokk Bevegelse (Baroque Movement in English). It was a somewhat ironic name, since the ballet was very contemporary – only the music was baroque, and even that was … modified. The person sitting next to me explained that Baroque Movement was part of a three-event series partnering a group called Barokksolistene with the National Ballet to focus on baroque music and I should really check out Alehouse Sessions.


Barokksolistene

Barokksolistene translates to “Baroque Soloists.” With the tagline, “It’s just really old pop music,” their focus is making music that people think of as stuffy and academic accessible and engaging to regular folks. If I could only catch one show in Norway, could there have been a better performance for me to see?

Violinist Bjarte Eike performs in the lobby of the Oslo Opera House.

Immersive ballet

Celebrity violinist Bjarte Eiki and the other musicians, together with “barokkbarn” (children in Baroque costumes) met the audience in the lobby and played us into the theater like pied pipers.

Barokkbarn prepared to lead the audience to their seats.

Since the music began in the lobby, there was no “moment” when the performance started. Musicians wandered the auditorium as people took their seats, gathered casually in front of the stage, and took their places. Slowly, the floor they stood on sank, and the orchestra disappeared from view, settling in the pit. But they didn’t stay there. Born showman Eike often appeared on stage throughout the performance, even changing clothes to match the dancers.  

I’m not going to describe the building or the auditorium in detail – there is plenty of information about the architecture elsewhere online. But I will say that it is beautiful. And it is a fraction the size of McCaw Hall, so even without the blurring of the fourth wall, performances in that space would feel intimate.

Resonance

The first piece was a world premiere by American choreographer Garret Smith called “Resonance.” The music comprised a collection of Baroque’s most frenetic composers.

“Resonance” Joerg Wiesner image c/o Norwegian National Ballet

Movement-wise, this dance was the most Contemporary Eric of the four, but the mood was humorous and irreverent. The costumes evoked the Baroque period filtered through a lens of Prince. It was the perfect start to the program, clearly setting the tone – this evening of Baroque music was going to be anything but stuffy. The dancers used violins as props (kind of stressing me out; I was like “be careful!” every time the violins showed up) reminding us that the violinist was the Baroque era’s lead guitar rock star.  

Bout of the Imperfect Pearl

Another new work, this one by Melissa Hough. Her name seemed familiar, but I don’t think I’ve seen her work before. She is an American trained in the Russian ballet tradition who dances with the company in Oslo.

“Bout of the Imperfect Pearl” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

There was a very feminist feeling to this piece. The lead was dressing and undressed while everyone else danced in nude bodysuits. It wasn’t quite a narrative, but it felt like commentary. The dance was very prop heavy, with the various articles of clothing that imprison the lead also informing a lot of the movement.

“Bout of the Imperfect Pearl” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

The music involved modified Vivaldi and a countertenor, whose effect I liked better than the first time I heard a counter tenor. The slower pace of the music and jet lag conspired against me during this beautiful piece, but the ominous, moody vibe woke my baby goth right up.

“Bout of the Imperfect Pearl” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

How did I get where…

Cina Espejord is another Oslo-based dancer. His world premiere “How did I get where…” was all about group dynamic. Especially with the water noises added to Bach’s music, their interactions reminded me of water molecules. Everyone was dressed in khakis and dingy tees, even Eike, who joined the dancers on stage.

“How did I get where” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

A projection of an old family photo implied that the relationships were more human than chemical, though. That photo appeared so gradually I almost didn’t notice it, then members in the photo start to disappear from it until only the child is left, finally whole thing is gone.

“How did I get where” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

A long middle passage with slowly plucked strings went on too long, but that super-connected style of dance where relationships and placement of dancers trumps specific movements is one of my favorite things to watch in dance.

Vespertine

The program ran a spectrum from most contemporary to most balletic (I thought you always put the toe shoes first?) ending with Vespertine.

“Vespertine” photo by Joerg Wiesner c/o Norwegian National Ballet

Liam Scarlett’s “Vespertine” was created for the Norwegian National Ballet in 2013. Scarlett was inspired by the music of Arcangelo Corelli to create an abstract, sensual work against a backdrop of hanging chandeliers.

“Vespertine” photo by Joerg Wiesner c/o Norwegian National Ballet

To me, it was the most beautiful of the four pieces. It was also the one that looked most familiar stylistically (coincidence? or unexamined bias?). Either way, it was exquisite.

Compare and Contrast

The best thing about seeing art away from home is finding out what you’re missing. How do they do things differently here? What’s universal? Compared to my home company, Pacific Northwest Ballet, the Norwegian National Ballet chose dances with different tropes. There was less shoulder-rolling and head-grabbing, more props. They told more of the story with costuming, from fussing with their clothes as part of the choreography to actually wearing props.

“Vespertine” photo by Joerg Wiesner c/o Norwegian National Ballet

The NNB dancers seemed to spend more time in the contemporary space than the PNB dancers do. It might have just been the particular program, but on that night, the dancers had the looser physicality of contemporary dancers instead of the tense verticality and sharpness that PNB dancers maintain even in less balletic pieces. There was more natural movement (no jazz hands ballet running here) but very little pointe work. In fact, toe shoes only appeared in “Vespertine,” and even then going on pointe was for pivots, not a place to hang out.

For all that PNB is improving its body diversity, the variety of body types was a pronounced contrast here, and the casting is unexpected for an eye accustomed to the Balanchine tradition. The waifish dancer took the lead in the more modern “Pearl” while a more solidly built dancer spent the most time on pointe.

Conclusion

Even though I love attending the ballet at home, I have rarely attended arts performances of any kind when traveling. I never pack nice clothes, and my plans are usually flexible enough to be uncertain of actually being in a certain town on a certain day. But getting to see the ballet in Oslo was one of the highlights of my trip to Norway. And actually enjoying art in a theater is much better than just taking pictures of the theater for Instagram. In the future, I might start building my travel plans around the local ballet calendar.

“How did I get where” photo by Erik Berg c/o Norwegian National Ballet

Program Details

Choreography

Liam Scarlett, Cina Espejord, Melissa Hough, Garret Smith

Music

Bjarte Eike, Jon Balke, John Dowland, Arcangelo Corelli, Francesco Geminiani, Johann Sebastian Bach, Antonio Vivaldi…

Sound design

Jon Balke

Lighting design Vespertine

Michael Hulls

Lighting Design Espejord, Hough, Smith

Paul Vidar Sævarang

Costume design Vespertine

Liam Scarlett

Costume design Espejord

Sunniva Østerbø

Costume design Hough

Xavier Ronze

Costume design Smith

Monica Guerra

Music director

Bjarte Eike

Artists

The Norwegian National Ballet, Barokksolistene

{I attended Baroque Movement courtesy of the Norwegian National Ballet.}

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International Basic Economy with a Kid

I have officially reached the age where my memory of the world as it was makes dealing with the world as it is challenging. I simply can’t wrap my head around the idea of paying extra for a seat on a plane. Isn’t that literally what a plane ticket is supposed to get you? Even if I wasn’t opposed on moral and grammatical grounds, these days my budget gives me two choices: travel as cheaply as possible or stay home. Which is how I ended up with two basic economy tickets to Norway in April.

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